Alligator River to Beaufort NC

First and foremost, people have been asking about the engine problem in Wicomico River - the burning rubber thing.   It was easy, peasy. The main fanbelt that drives the coolant pump and the alternator was loose.  Took all of 30 seconds to fix once the anchor was down.

Secondly, Lynn asked me to mention all the times we saw dolphins.  At least twice, maybe more, and I've now seen them in the Albemarle Sound and Alligator River, as well as the Neuse River.  They appear smaller and darker than the ones we saw in the Chesapeake and certainly than the ones I've seen in Florida and the Bahamas.  They never fail to tickle the fancy and someday I'm going to jump in with them.

Well, the, the fried chicken at the Alligator River Marina is great!  When I say great, I mean awesome.  And when I say awesome, I mean that if you ever get to the Alligator River Marina you have to have some.  I am sorry I just got two pieces instead of a bucket.  It was cooked right, without a lot (or any, I think) breading and spiced just right.  Not greasy at all. Highly recommended!

I left the Alligator River Marina around 7:30 in the morning and got an immediate opening at the Alligator River Bridge!  Woohoo!  It was a beautiful day with light winds out of the north east.  Moved along nicely all day.  It was uneventful with no troubles from the engine/fuel system.  That's a plus.

Alligator-Pungo River Canal

The Alligator-Pungo River  Canal is about 20 miles long with forests on each side (some more dead than alive) but on a sunny day it can be amazingly beautiful.  The wind was behind me and the seas calm and it smelled amazing!

I had the canal almost to myself this transit - but I did see enough dead heads to keep me alert!

Decaying Morgan Out Island

In the canal, though is a docked Morgan Out Island 41 sloop that has been there since I started travelling this route in 1992.  Every time I pass it it's a little (or a lot) rattier and I am surprised beyond belief it's still floating.  Now it's covered in guano.  Some years ago, the main sail was removed (having more or less rotted).  It's sad. 

Dowry Creek Marina 

Usually I stop in Bellhaven at the River Forest Marina or anchor behind the breakwater.  I've passed by the Dowry Creek Marina maybe a dozen times but as this is an adventure trip I thought, what the hell, this is as good a time as any to try it.


I am glad I did!  It's a great a little marina.  The man that owns the pharmacies in Bellhaven recently purchased the marina ( a couple of years ago ) and runs it when he can but has a couple of dock guys to handle it when he's not there.  Everyone is so friendly!  They didn't even laugh at me when I backed into my slip. 

They have a courtesy car.  It works.  I went to town to get some food and stuff.  It was fun going over 7 miles an hour for a few minutes!

My plan was to go to Oriental the next day but I was there by 2pm so I figured I'd just continue up to New Bern, another three hours.  I made the 5 pm Cunningham Bridge opening (yay!) by one minute.  How about that?  Saved an hour waiting.  Was tied to the Bridge Pointe Marina dock a few minutes later where loads of people came to assist.  It's a big deal, apparently. All very friendly, full of questions.  It was like a homecoming almost.

New Bern is a lovely little city - they've put a lot into it to bring in business and sort of upgrade the marinas which were damaged a few years ago in storms. One of the things they did was have people sponsor fiberglass bears and have them painted up to display outside their businesses.  It's pretty cool, and I include some here for your amusement.

The first night I was tired and just wanted to rest.  The next day Doug, Ron (his friend) and I spend doing all sorts of errands and eating and generally carrying on.  I liked it so much there I decided to stay one day longer, also because the weather report indicated Wednesday the 25th was supposed to have wind out of the west or north west off Beaufort as opposed to 15-20 kts out of the south with 8 foot seas on Tuesday.

When I left Monday it was only for a short hop to a small anchorage in Cedar Creek just off Adams Creek (the part of the ICW that goes from the Neuse River to Beaufort).  It got really windy and during the night rained torrentially.  But the anchor held (had to reset once when I arrived) and it was a comfortable night in reality although I worried the whole time.  Also, I found some new leaks.  I learned the next day from Doug that in addition to the rain, some of the gusts were 60mph.  It explains why I had so much trouble getting the anchor out.

The next morning I waited until the storm passed around 9 am, weighed anchor and set off for the Town Creek Marina in Beaufort.  Of course, the wind was on the nose and went to about 20 kts when I left Adams Creek. I took the Russell Creek back way into Beaufort so I wouldn't have to deal with the bridge to go to the Town Creek Marina.


A new bridge is being built there and the channel has changed a little bit, but with the help of Carol from Town Creek Marina I arrived in fine fettle.  And here I am, still in fettle, awaiting the change in wind direction so I can head south to Masonboro Inlet and Wrightsville Beach tomorrow morning.

If I have to, I'll go inside, but with northwest winds, maybe I can sail again!  Also, avoid those annoying bridges at Wrightsville Beach.

Well, next stop: Wrightsville Beach.
 

St. Michael's to the Alligator River

Whew!  There are some stories to tell about this last week!

St. Michael's Crab & Steak House

Lynn and I spent two days in St. Michael's  - the first evening after arriving we went to the St. Michael's Crab & Steak House down on the harbor waterfront.  The rain had finally stopped but with high tide there was some water to ford getting there.

The food was pretty good - we both had crab dishes; mine a crab cake and hers a crab imperial.  Mine was delicious!  That was one healthy crab cake with little or no filler.  Big chunks.  Vegetables indifferent.  But that's not why you go there, anyway.  Crab.  Steak.  Go for that.

Main Street, St. Michael's

The next day, after Lynn finished her meetings, we went to wander around town.  St. Michael's is a cute little town that has amongst other things, a lot of restaurants and a winery, a rum distillery (Lyon's), a big salvage store (like antiques but not that old) and a lot of gift shops.

We had to go to Awful Arthur's Seafood Company for lunch because, well, with a name like that how could it be bad?  It couldn't.  They had amazing oysters on the half shell and we both had a great salad with fried oysters on it.  Odd, but the salad with fried oysters on it (6) was like $15, but the half dozen fried oysters alone as an appetizer was $12.  The salad was a better deal, frankly. 

After lunch, Lynn wanted to see the Lyon Distillery.  She had had them give a talk at one of the get-togethers and wanted to see the thing face to face, as it were.

Nothing would do but we had to taste all their rums.  They're not aged, but they are 'rested' for a couple of months in barrels.  They also make a vodka and gin. Unfortunately, their distribution is fairly small so you probably won't see their rum any time soon.

I'm not a big rum drinker, tending towards aged spirits (like Zapata rum, for instance).  I found these young and harsh.  But that's from an aged scotch drinker, so there's that.

Lynn had been threatening to make a chicken in a pot.  My disbelief in the process was strong.  But it was the night for it.  Guess what?  Not only is it possible, but it was terrific!  And afterwards there was chicken soup!  Brilliant.

The next day we were leaving for the southern Chesapeake, Solomon MD harbor.  It was sunny and humid and getting hotter.  Really hotter.  The 1400 log entry was, "38° 41.2N, 76° 23.9W SOG 6.8, COG 170° Engine 2000 rpm, 190°, 45#.  Fucking hot and sunny. Virtually no breeze.  We had to throw the last of the horses overboard today."

Solomon Island marinas

We found a gorgeous anchorage up the Mill River past Solomon Island.  It was time for a swim - Lynn convinced me to join her - she was quite enthusiastic about getting in the water.  

I think we had beef stew for dinner.  It was delicious!  Also, it cooled down and started misting.  Terrific.   During the evening we discussed going up the Patuxtent River to St. Leonard's Creek.  We took some time to choose an anchorage but way up the creek is Vera's Beach Club.  It is as surprising a find as you could expect. 

As the evening progressed, the skies became cloudier and the wind windier.  Thursday we left fairly early, on our way about 8am.  It was windy with small craft warnings.  But, hey, Pelican isn't a small craft.  We bashed our way out the Patuxtent River bound for the Piankatank River because I like the name.  After clearing the southern point of the river, we headed on a course of 170° and set a single reefed mizzen and reefed jib.


With the winds at 15-25, gusting to 30 out of the east and the seas at 3-6 feet we blew down the Chesapeake at a blistering 7.5kts SOG.  I must say, alone I would not have been out there but Lynn convinced me and I'm so happy she did!  What a sail!

Wolf Trap Lighthouse, Chesapeake

We reached the Wicomico River, just south of the Potomac.  As we turned into Ingram Bay, I furled the jib and started the engine.  Burning rubber smell, tach reading zero.  Not good.  Bad belt, probably, but not the place to fix it in the conditions we had.   

While travelling up the bay under reefed mizzen at 5.5kts we had a pod of dolphin playing with our wake and bow wave.  It was the first time Lynn had seen them.  She was thrilled, talking to them and pointing them out.  It was beautiful to see them again through someone else's eyes.

The plan was to sail into Cockerell Creek to anchor and fix the motor.   But we couldn't point high enough.  So we put out the jib and looked for another protected bay up the river to stop in.  As we passed Sandy Point on the port side we saw two boats already anchored.  Lynn steered us in and chose a spot to drop the anchor.  We furled the jib, and under mizzen she put us right where we wanted to be.  I dropped the anchor and as Pelican blew back, the anchor set and we were there.

Dammit, I wish you lot could have seen that!  It was perfect.  Quiet, professional, and efficient!   It was like old-timey sailing.

We were happily exhausted.  The wind was still up, but with the short fetch Pelican rested lightly on her anchor.

Lynn on the helm under full press of sail

The next day was Friday the 13th.  Sadly, Lynn's time with me on Pelican was growing short.  We had to make it to Norfolk, VA.  The wind was still up but moderating.  We got underway around 9 am.  We motored out to the Chesapeake with another dolphin escort.  What a beautiful way to start the day.

Winds were 15-20 so we raised all the sails when we got on course!  Lynn was on the helm grinning the whole morning.

We hand steered the whole day until we got to Thimble Shoal Light just outside Hampton Roads entrance.  After a rather unprofessional dropping of the main (my fault but here's what I found out: Pelican will heave to with grace and comfort. That's nice to know.)  Anyway, we proceeded into the harbor under jib and mizzen.   Once we turned down battleship row, we dowsed them as well and continued under power.

Here's the thing - just as we arrived to Thimble Shoals it started to rain.  And then it rained harder.  We travelled for another hour or so and arrived at Waterside Marina in down town Norfolk.  Now, I'd never been there and I knew it was across the Elizabeth River from the Tidewater Marina (where I have been) so I tried to get entrance directions from the marina hands.

Picture this: it's rainy and grey.  We're tired, wet and cold. It's getting dark.  Where is the entrance?  The directions  are to go to the battleship and look for the entrance.  Guess what?  Battleships are grey for a reason.  So we went really slowly until there was a GREAT BIG LIT UP SIGN, "Waterside"  right above the entrance.  That would have been a useful tidbit of information.

Anyway, easy in, easy tie up. 

The Waterside Marina is nice, small with good floating docks.  But it's near Norfolk's Waterside which is noisy.  A small park with big national restaurants and lots of activity on the weekends.  If you're looking for exciting things to do, this is the marina.  If you're looking for quiet, go to Tidewater Marina across the way.  For instance, we got in late Friday night and at 7 am Saturday they were doing sound checks with house music.

We wanted to go to a breakfast place so we wandered off to a place called 3 Way Cafe, but it didn't open until 10!  WTF?  It advertises breakfast and brunch.  I guess we just wanted breakfast too early.  Anyway, we met a couple, Brian and Wendy who gave us the bad news.  But nearby was d'Egg Diner which we all went to.  It was really good with friendly service.  I'd definitely go back!

After breakfast we walked to a nearby Enterprise car rental place and picked up Lynn's rental tank.  She had ordered an Altima but ended up with the biggest, blackest SUV I've seen.  I think an Armada.  What a tank.  A tank with comfort but a tank nonetheless.  We drove it to a local garage to park it until Sunday.

Battleship Wisconsin & I

Then we wandered off to the battleship Wisconsin. Man, that's a big ship.  I wouldn't want whomever's running that bad boy pissed off at me! 

We spent a lovely few hours wandering around the museum and ship.

But then it was nap time, don't you know.

We had a quite dinner.  Sunday, Lynn was heading home because someone needs to keep the world running.  Meanwhile, it was time for me to see my friends Bob and Nancy for brunch.

They met me at the marina where we were supposed to have brunch at Stripers, but it was closed until 11 and worse, it was under construction.  So off they took me to Leaping Lizard Cafe.  The bloody marys were great, the food excellent (although if you get the crab cake benedict, ask for extra hollandaise sauce beforehand.  You'll be glad you did.)

Cape Charles Light

After brunch we took a tour of the Cape Charles lighthouses and the beach.  They're on a military base and we had to show our IDs - mine was a license.  Not sure what that was all about, but Nancy had a real life military ID so we were completely cool.   Then we took a tour of Virgina Beach which has changed an incredible amount since I was there.  I suppose it's good for the state but it's just a tourist trap now.  Oh, well.

I had to get back - a big day was in the offing.  I was going to leave Norfolk at 5 am to catch the bridges.

I did even better than that.  I left at 4:38.  Once I got my bearings I was able to get down to the Gilmerton lift bridge pretty quick.  Guess what?  The rail bridge was closed next to it so I had to wait.  Feh.  When I got to the Great Bridge lock, I had to wait for shift change (a few minutes) and they locked me through for the 7 am Great Bridge opening!  Yay!

Old Cape Charles Light

But then, bummer.  The Centerville Turnpike Bridge was closed until 8:30 so I had to wait for an hour.  Feh.  But there was a Pearson 31 right behind me so when I tied up to the fuel dock there at the Centerville Marina, I had them come alongside.  I met Ron and his friend.  Ron was a Nuke, too, but an ET.  That was interesting.  He worked at Three Mile Island during its excursion (not his fault - he was off that shift) but stayed and retired from the company.   I hope to see them again.  We were going to meet at an anchorage just beyond Coinjock.

I had planned to stay at the Midway Marina and Hotel in Coinjock but I was there around noon, too early to stop. I had flown down the Currituck sound motor sailing at 7.5 kts steady.  There was a 15-20 kt breeze or so that was way aft of the beam and I had the jib out.

Well, I passed the anchorage about 2pm, also too early to stop.  Besides the wind had piped up quite a bit to like 25-30.  I decided to go for the Alligator River Marina, which made me cross the Albemarle Sound with following wind and seas.

This I can say:  I was very happy to not be going the other direction.  It started to rain, the wind was gusting over 30, and the waves short, steep, and up to 3 feet.  Even the autopilot was having trouble.  But I was flying!

I backed in!  Like a pro!

I arrived at the Alligator River Marina at about 5:30, cold, wet, and tired and where the grill was closed.  Feh.  One of the people I met at the Centerville Turnpike Bridge told me they had the best fried chicken in North Carolina.  Well, I had to try that.

Sadly, before lunch the next day, a truck ran into the power line and the grill went down until after closing.  So tomorrow, before I leave, I'm gettin' me a basket of fried chicken!

Well, that's about all for now.  Lots of adventures happened, lots more to go!  Oh, and someone suggested a font change.  Let me know if you like it.

Castle Harbor Marina to St. Michael's

While at Castle Harbor Marina (which, if you ever have the chance to visit, I highly recommend) and my guest, Lynn, was out doing work things I had the time to get my folding bike out and explore.

One of the tributaries the Cross Island Trail crosses

Not far from the marina is the Kent Cross Island Trail which goes, as you might surmise, from the west end of the island to the east, ending at a nature park near the Bay Bridge on the west and the Kent Narrows bridge on the other.  I'm guessing it's about 10 miles long or so.  It is beautiful mostly with sections rather near industrial sites.  But is flat and paved so I can manage it.  It's great for walking and riding.  A lovely way to spend one or more afternoons.

The weather has been warm and increasingly humid.  Apparently tropical storm Nate has been working its way towards the Chesapeake.  It's been sunny, but every day the cloud cover has been more dense.

Anyway, I've been reading about the Kent Narrows, how shallow, how fast the current, blah, blah, blah.  Not recommended for sail boats and so forth.  But going all the way around Kent Island to St. Michael's is a six hour trip.  No one of the marina staff really had any experience (power boaters) so they could just surmise it was passable. 

Lynn met a couple passing Pelican Sunday morning while I was indisposed and they indicated it was not only passable but a nice trip.  His brother-in-law had a six foot draft and regularly went that way.

So, there you have it.  We left at high tide at 8 am, got to the bridge for the 8:30 opening and passed with no depths less than 7.5 feet, even in the entry channel.  The only thing I can say is, go at high tide if you draw more than 5.5 feet.

The other thing is that the wind was out of the south pushing water up the bay and rivers so its effect was to reduce the current through the narrows.  The bridge tender was exceedingly nice and the transit was without problem as I had hoped.  It was my first bridge opening this trip.  Well for some 7 or 8 years, to be sure.  It's like falling off a bike - you never forget how to do it.

Under sail with Lynn at helm

The wind was out of the south, south west at 10-18 knots so once past Parsons Island south of the narrows we set sail towards the Chesapeake because we had time and there was wind.  Predicted 20-25 kt winds didn't arrive and we managed to sail to within a mile or so of St. Michael's.  It really was a beautiful day for that, and Lynn is a good sailor.  We worked really well together. Man, can she trim sails!

We arrived at St. Michael's around 1:30 or so and tied up at the T-head of G dock, right in the heart of the museum!  Wow!  It's like being kings or something.

Pelican At CMM G dock

On the next T-head is another Pelican who caused some confusion as we both came in at the same time.  Met them at the office and they're nice people.  He said that he'd never run into a situation like that with two Pelicans.  I have.

Today, Nate is passing over with gale warnings on the bay.  We're staying put and leaving early tomorrow for maybe Solomons Island or farther if we can make it.

It seems like all my pictures are cloudy and grey.  I'd like to take some sunny ones.  Maybe tomorrow!  Oh, wait.  Here's one:



 

Finally, the Chesapeake!

Here I am at the Castle Harbor Marina on Kent Island, MD.  It's a lovely not-so-little marina that's well protected. It's really easy to get into with a jetty protected channel that reveals itself as you line up on it. 

On site there are two restaurants - a pub and a sushi place.  I can attest that the sushi place is both popular and good. 

But, you're asking, how did I get here?

You'll remember the engine issue.  I figured all the replacements would do the job, and truthfully, in calm waters the next afternoon I left to transit the C & D Canal.  Reverie had left earlier and indicated they'd anchor behind Reedy Island just south of the eastern canal entrance.

In calm water with little breeze, the engine ran fine - stumbled once or twice but nothing continuing.  Done and dusted, I thought.  After anchoring and puttering around for a while, it was bed time.   Sadly, because neither Reverie or I had dinghy or motor we couldn't get together for cocktails.  A sad moment, to be sure.

Turkey Point exiting C&D Canal

The next day, I left around 7:30 am to get the current, mostly, through the canal.  It turned west around 9 or so and off to the races!  I was anchored in Turner Creek on the south side of the Sassafras River below Ordinary Point (which really is very ordinary, but still, I'd think a better name could have been come up with.  I suppose there's a story somewhere.)  In theory, there was a place I could sneak into to tie up to and visit the park.  But too shallow. 

Anyway, anchor down, cocktail in hand, evening to enjoy.  But the interesting thing is that the engine ran faultlessly.  

The next morning, I headed in to anchor near Georgetown, MD to meet with an old friend, Jim Affleck.  His ferry is a rather powerful jet ski.  As he was occupied until lunch time we went off to the local place, Twinny's for some good, inexpensive food.  Apparently there was a cheaper place but they closed.  Given the town of Galena is literally 300 feet by 300 feet it's surprising there were two to begin with.

Anyway, we both ate a hearty lunch for $25 including tax and tip!  My kind of place.


The day continued with no small amount of vodka and various mixers, including my friend, Ken's, special drink - vodka, tonic, blueberries and lime.  Very refreshing on a warm day.  Dinner at The Granary right at Jim's marina. Not bad.  It was, I must say, a very pleasant day spent in good company.  Thanks, Jim!

Wednesday came and the plan was to end up at Castle Harbor Marina (remember that?) to meet another friend. 

Motoring down the Chesapeake all was going well until the engine started to die again.  There was a great deal of swearing.  Surprised?  Don't be.  While the engine is running sort of I took the cover off and see big air bubbles coming through the Racor filter.  It happens, apparently, when the fuel tank is half full (or empty depending on your bent).  I tried adding fuel to see if that helped.  No.  It didn't.

More swearing.  I'm basically drifting in the middle of the Chesapeake whilst trying to manage this issue.  There is nothing to do but take fuel from a 5 gallon jug and returning it there. The new fuel pump will pump 5 gallons out in less than an hour.  But it's enough to get to the marina and fuel up the main tank, which I do.

The afternoon and this morning (Thursday, October 5) are spent trying to find a leak - I removed the pickup (no leak) check the hose to the Racor.  Reseat the lid.  Run engine, no air leak.  So for now that's done.  I think there was a leak at the top of the tank but I can't explain it.  If not, I'll know in about 40 hours.

Well, more adventure to follow!